Chenin Blanc: From the Loire with Love
Chenin Blanc is the ultimate wine multitasker. It’s got range. High acidity? Check. A waxy, almost lanolin-like mouthfeel? Also check. This grape is like that friend who somehow fits in a backyard BBQ, a fancy gala, and a dive bar—all in the same day.
Depending on how it’s made, Chenin Blanc can take on wildly different personas. It can be crisp and mineral-driven, lush and fruit-forward, or even show up in rich and honeyed dessert wines, thanks to its susceptibility to noble rot (botrytis). Oh, and did I mention it can sparkle? Because it absolutely can. Pop the cork, pour a glass, and let’s get into it.
Signs You’re Sipping Chenin
Its versatility also means there’s no easy “tell” when it comes to spotting Chenin Blanc. But if you find yourself swirling a mystery white wine, look for these telltale signs:
- Mouthwatering Acidity – No matter the style, Chenin Blanc almost always brings the zing. If it makes your cheeks tingle, you may be sipping a Chenin.
- Aromatic Complexity – Think green apple, pear, quince, citrus, tropical fruits, and even honey or floral notes. If it’s got layers, pay attention.
- Creamy and Round Texture…Sometimes – Sometimes lean and mineral-driven, sometimes creamy and round—especially if it’s been aged on the lees.
- Slightly Waxy or Oily Mouthfeel – A classic trait of Chenin Blanc, giving it that extra oomph.
- Sweet (but Not Always) – Some Chenins (especially from Vouvray) can trick you—off-dry or even sweet, but with acidity so high you don’t always notice right away.
What the Foudre?
The way Chenin is made affects everything from its texture to its flavor. A few key winemaking techniques shape its final character:
- Steel Fermentation → Produces crisp, mineral-driven wines with razor-sharp acidity.
- Neutral Oak Aging → Softens the acidity and adds subtle nutty, honeyed notes.
- Large Wooden Foudres (oversized wooden vats several times your normal wine barrel) → Slow, controlled oxidation brings a gentle oak influence without overpowering the fruit.
- Aging on Lees → Creates a rounder, creamier mouthfeel, adding complexity to the wine.
Signature Regions
Chenin is most commonly associated with France’s Loire Valley (where it originated) and South Africa. It’s also grown in the United States in California and Washington and increasingly in parts of the New World, including Argentina, Australia, and New Zealand. Notable regions for Chenin Blanc production.
- Loire: In the Loire the two most notable appellations are Vouvray and Savennières. Vouvray is known for producing a range of styles, from dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), sweet (moelleux), and sparkling, where it appears in the region’s Cremant de Loire—either on its own or as part of a blend. Savennières, meanwhile, is known for dry, mineral-driven Chenin Blanc with complex aromas and structured acidity.
- South Africa: Locally known as Steen, Chenin blanc makes up about 18.5 percent of South Africa’s wine production. It’s widely produced in Stellenbosch and Swartland, both of which produce fresh, unoaked styles and rich, oak-aged Chenin Blanc with tropical and stone fruit flavors.
- United States: While much of the U.S.’s production has been focused on high-yield, bulk wines, given the grape’s relative hardiness and productive yields, Napa Valley and Clarksburg are increasingly being recognized for producing high-quality Chenin Blanc.
Recommendations
St. Rey, En Foudre Chenin Blanc ($30) – United States, Clarksburg: Dry and medium-bodied, St. Rey features citrus and tropical fruit flavors of lemon, grapefruit, and papaya, with notes of honey and white tea. Complex and high-acid, but without any sharpness, it’s quickly become one of my go-to winter whites. St. Rey is produced by Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, a family-run winery known for organic, sustainable, and environmentally friendly production. The wine spends approximately 11 months aging on its lees in oval casks (“En Foudre”) without stirring, contributing to its complexity and rich mouth feel. Given its small production (125 cases) you’re less likely to find it on wine lists, but it’s worth a sip if you do.
