Seneca Lake Wine Guide: Where Riesling Meets Cabernet Franc

If you’ve been sleeping on Finger Lakes wine country, it’s time to wake up. Seneca Lake features world-class Rieslings, surprising Cab Francs, and the kind of vineyard views that make you question why you ever thought Napa was the only option.

I just spent three days based at the Idlwilde Inn in Watkins Glen, and it set the entire tone for the trip. Picture fox hunt wallpaper, pristine wainscoting, a wraparound porch dripping with hydrangeas, and the most incredible homemade breakfast I’ve had in years. Host Marcus was the ultimate connector—he set me up with discount codes at some of the best wineries around and gave insider tips on where to go and eat that had this first-timer feeling like a local.

Why Seneca Lake Should Be On Your Wine Radar

Seneca Lake is the largest and deepest of the Finger Lakes, which means it has serious lake-effect climate magic happening. Those deep waters moderate temperatures, creating perfect conditions for cool-climate grapes like Riesling (the region’s show horse) and Cabernet Franc (the dark horse).

What Makes Seneca Special:

Riesling central: From bone-dry to lusciously sweet to skin fermented to bubbles, this lake does Riesling in every mood
Cab Franc headquarters: Seriously underrated here—think Loire Valley vibes but with New York attitude
Diversity for days: You’ll also find Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Lemberger/Blaufränkisch (same grape, different names depending on the winery), and even some experimental hybrids
Killer lake views: Grapes are plated along the water to maximize the lake effect, and many tasting rooms are perched on hillsides overlooking it

Seneca Lake Riesling vs. Mosel Riesling: The Comparison

If you’ve read my Mosel Valley guide, you know I’m obsessed with German Riesling. So how does Seneca Lake stack up?

The Similarities:

High acidity that makes your mouth water
Incredible range from bone-dry to dessert-sweet
Precision and elegance over power
Ability to age gracefully for years (sometimes decades)

The Differences:

Mosel Rieslings tend to have that distinctive slate minerality, are often lighter in body, and frequently show more pronounced petrol notes as they age
Seneca Lake Rieslings often have slightly riper fruit character, can be a touch fuller-bodied, and frequently show more citrus and stone fruit alongside the minerality

☝ Bottom line: If you love Mosel Riesling, you’ll love Seneca Lake Riesling. They’re cousins, not twins—related but with their own distinct personalities.

The Two Sides of Seneca Lake: Geography Matters

Here’s something Anthony at Forge taught me that changed how I understood the lake: the east and west sides of Seneca Lake have different terroirs. The east side (Route 414) tends to have more shale and slate soils with slightly more protection from weather systems, while the west side (Route 14) has more varied soils and slightly different sun exposure. You can taste the difference.

I’m organizing the wineries geographically rather than chronologically because it’ll help you plan your own route—and because understanding the lake’s two sides makes the wines make more sense.

East Side Wineries (Route 414): Across the Lake

This side tends to have more shale and slate soils, which give wines that characteristic minerality Finger Lakes Rieslings are known for. The eastern shore also gets slightly more protection from prevailing weather systems, and because it faces west, the vineyards get that gorgeous afternoon and evening sun. This side is where you’ll find the highest concentration of wineries—it’s the busier, more developed wine trail with lots of options clustered together. Perfect for hitting multiple tastings in a shorter drive.

Damiani Wine Cellars: The Perfect Warm-Up

First stop, after a long drive from D.C.—and Damiani delivered exactly the chill, welcoming energy I needed. Their “Greatest Hit Flight” let me ease into Finger Lakes wine without overthinking it. The 2022 Dry Riesling from Davis Vineyard was crisp and mineral-driven (hello, palate wake-up call), and the 2023 Cabernet Franc gave me my first taste of what this region does so well with this grape.

Vibe: Low-key, friendly, perfect for shaking off car trip stiffness
Don’t Miss: Their sparkling wines (Bollicine) if you’re feeling celebratory

Red Newt Cellars: When Riesling Gets Serious

Red Newt is where I really started understanding Seneca Lake’s Riesling range. The Tango Oaks 2017 Riesling (yes, 2017!) showed me how these wines age gracefully, developing honeyed complexity while maintaining that signature acidity. The 2012 Gewürztraminer from Curry Creek was giving major rose petal and lychee energy—absolutely gorgeous.

Vibe: Established, polished
Pro Tip: Their older vintages prove that Finger Lakes Rieslings are seriously age-worthy

Atwater Vineyards: Bubbles & Balance

Atwater came through with fun, approachable wines that reminded me why I love versatile whites. Their Bubbles Riesling 2024 was force-carbonated (think wine meets SodaStream in contrast to the Champagne method) and ridiculously refreshing. The Lahoma Riesling had a touch of sweetness balanced by zingy acidity—like a German Kabinett but with New York attitude.

Highlight: The Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc (85% Cab Franc, 15% Blaufränkisch) was unexpected and delightful—proof that rosé doesn’t have to be Provençal to be good.

Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards: Party Vibes & Popcorn

Okay, so Hazlitt was recommended as a “party-style tasting” complete with its own chant (“Red Cat is an aphrodisiac!”). The bar has a rustic, taxidermy-filled energy that’s equal parts Adirondack cabin and Saturday night out. Emma, my tasting guide, was lovely to chat with, and the popcorn was dangerously good. I particularly enjoyed the 2023 Grüner Veltliner (yes, Austria’s famous grape grows here!) and 2021 Meritage a Bordeaux-style red blend that held its own.

Vibe: Fun, casual, bring your friends energy
Why Go: If you want a tasting experience that doesn’t take itself too seriously (and popcorn!)

Forge Cellars: The Main Event (Worth Every Penny)

Let me be clear: Forge Cellars is not your average tasting room experience. This is Finger Lakes wine at its most serious, most thoughtful, and most impressive. I ended up doing two separate tastings here because once simply wasn’t enough.

The Summer House Tasting ($40, 2.5 hours):
This wasn’t just a tasting—it was a masterclass. Anthony, my guide, walked me through the production site, explained the winery’s French roots, broke down the geographic differences between the east and west sides of Seneca Lake, and gave insights into different vintages that informed the rest of my entire trip. By Napa/Sonoma standards, $40 for this level of education and wine quality is an absolute steal.

Wines That Stopped Me In My Tracks:

2023 Piece by Piece Brut Nature: Elegant, bone-dry bubbles that rivaled Champagne
2023 Dry Riesling Les Alliés: Minerality for days, laser-focused fruit
2022 Breakneck Creek Riesling: Named for a nearby gorge, this wine had serious structure and complexity
2019 Willow Cabernet Franc: This is what Finger Lakes Cab Franc is all about—savory, elegant, with beautiful red fruit and earthy undertones

I liked the experience so much that I went back to the Salon for a second flight, which I shared with Scarlett and Shannon (two women I’d befriended during the Summer House tasting—wine people are the best people). The Salon flight let me deep-dive into their single-vineyard Rieslings and see how different sites express themselves.

Vibe: Elevated, educational, wine-focused (in the best way)
Reservations: Generally required, but check if the Salon has walk-in availability
Why It’s Worth It: This is where you’ll understand why serious wine people are obsessed with the Finger Lakes
My Wine Haul: Forge hit the record—five bottles came home with me from it alone. When you know, you know.

Lamoreaux Landing: Lake Views & Cab Franc Dreams

Perched right on the lake with stunning views, Lamoreaux Landing delivered both on aesthetics and wine quality. Their Rosé de Cabernet Franc was beautifully dry and structured (not your basic summer sipper), and the Yellow Dog Riesling 2022 showcased why this winery has such a strong following.

Vibe: Polished, scenic, Instagram-worthy
Pro Tip: Book your tasting for late afternoon to catch the best light on the lake

Leidenfrost Vineyards: Rebel Spirit, Tattooed Energy

Mentioned multiple times by guides at both Forge and Hazlitt, Leidenfrost has a bit of a legend status in the area. John Leidenfrost built the reputation (according the team at Forge who sourced his grapes, nobody told him how to grow grapes), and now his tattooed daughter Liz runs the show with the same independent spirit. My honest take: the wines leaned a bit sweet for my personal taste (I’m team dry all the way), but I absolutely loved the energy. And, if you like off-dry to semi-sweet wines, you’ll be in heaven here. And even for others on #team dry, there were great options like the Dry Riesling 2023 and Pinot Noir 2023: Light, fruity, approachable, both of which were fruity and approachable.

Vibe: Casual, unpretentious, a little rebellious
Why Go: For the personality and the story as much as the wine

West Side Wineries (Route 14): Where I Ended My Journey

The western shore has more varied soil types and faces east, catching the morning sun. The vineyards here tend to be a bit more spread out, and the side overall has a slightly quieter, less crowded feel. Don’t let that fool you though—some of the most respected producers in the region (like Hermann J. Wiemer) are on this side. The wines can show slightly different characteristics thanks to the different sun exposure and soil composition.

Lakewood Vineyards: The Hybrid Surprise

Lakewood splits their tastings into “dry” and “sweet” flights (I obviously went dry), and I was genuinely surprised by how much I loved the Long Stem White 2023. I’m usually not super into American hybrid grape varieties, but this wine converted me. Loved it so much I took home a magnum—and at Finger Lakes prices, that’s actually affordable.

Vibe: Approachable, value-focused, family-friendly
Why Go: If you want to explore beyond Vitis vinifera and see what American hybrids can do

Barnstormer Brewing & Winemaking: The Unexpected Gem

I almost didn’t stop at Barnstormer, but I’m so glad I did. This newer addition to the Seneca Lake scene combines brewing and winemaking under one roof, and the wines were seriously impressive. They were kind enough to let me side-by-side two Rieslings (Skin Fermented Riesling 2024 (orange wine alert!) and Riesling Dry Reserve 2023), two rosés (Blaufränkisch Rosé 2024 and Sangiovese Rosé) and two Cab Francs (their entry Cabernet Franc compared with Cab Franc Lahoma) for the ultimate taste off.

Vibe: Casual, creative, brewery-meets-winery energy
Why Go: For skin-contact Riesling, side-by-side comparisons, and a more laid-back atmosphere
Pro Tip: They also make beer, so if you’re traveling with a non-wine person, this is a solid compromise stop

Hermann J. Wiemer

Saving one of the best for last. Hermann J. Wiemer is a Finger Lakes legend—German-born, Riesling-obsessed, and responsible for some of the most age-worthy wines in the region. Their tasting setup is brilliant: wine is served in carafes so you can order 2.5 or 5 oz pours to share, or go solo with 1.25 oz pours (at half the 2.5 oz price). Maximum flexibility, maximum wine nerdery.

On top of the (many) wines I’d chosen, they surprised me with a blind tasting of their 2023 Gewürztraminer— identified from the ginger and lychee notes (wine blog training paying off!). Even though I’m not typically a sweet wine person, I took home a bottle of their Late Harvest Riesling 2023 because it was that good. It’s like dessert in a glass, but less cloying than most sweet wines—perfect for serving slightly chilled with a fruit dessert.

Wines Worth Trying:

Dry Riesling Reserve 2022: Serious, structured, cellar-worthy
Riesling Flower Day 2024: Lighter, more playful expression
Cabernet Franc Magdalena 2023: Single-vineyard bottling with beautiful complexity
Late Harvest Riesling 2023: Honeyed, luscious, perfectly balanced by acidity

Vibe: Established, respected, serious about quality
Why Go: This is Finger Lakes Riesling royalty. Enough said.

Quick Reference: Seneca Lake Wineries At A Glance

Winery	Go For	Must-Try	Vibe	Side of Lake
Damani	Easy intro, sparkling	“Greatest Hits”	Casual, welcoming	East
Atwater	Bubbles & rosé	Dry Rosé of Cab Franc	Fun, approachable	East
Hazlitt	Party vibes	Grüner Veltliner	Rustic, lively	East
Forge Cellars	Deep dive education	Les Alliés Riesling, Willow Cab Franc	Elevated, nerdy	East
Leidenfrost	Rebel spirit	Tango (if you like off-dry)	Casual, independent	East
Lamoreaux Landing	Lake views	Cab Franc lineup	Polished, scenic	East
Red Newt	Aged Rieslings	Tango Oaks 2017 Riesling, Circle Riesling	Polished, established	West
Barnstormer	Skin-contact wines, side-by-sides	Skin Fermented Riesling	Casual, creative	West
Herman J. Wiemer	Riesling legends, surprise blind tasting	Any Dry Riesling	Established, respected	West
Lakewood	Hybrid exploration	Long Stem White	Family-friendly, value	West

🗺️ Geography Guide: West side wineries cluster along Route 14, east side along Route 414. Both sides offer stunning lake views, but you’ll taste subtle terroir differences between them.

Where to Stay: Idlwilde Inn Made Everything Better

illustration of a woman eating pizza at idlwilde inn — Idlwilde’s vibes were so on point that I decided to forgo dinner out in favor of a pizza and a good book on the porch.

I cannot say enough good things about the Idlwilde Inn in Watkins Glen. From the moment I walked in and saw that gorgeous fox hunt wallpaper and pristine wainscoting, I knew I’d made the right choice. The wraparound porch with hydrangeas was my evening happy hour spot, and the homemade breakfast spread was the perfect fuel for full wine tasting days.

Why Idlwilde Was Perfect:

Prime location in Watkins Glen (central to everything)
Discount codes for nearby wineries
Insider tips from Marcus that elevated the trip
Cozy, elegant atmosphere that felt both fancy and comfortable
Best breakfast spread I’ve encountered at a B&B

💡 Pro Tip: Book early—this place is a gem and fills up fast, especially during peak season.

Seneca Lake Wine: The Bottom Line

After three days and nine wineries, here’s what I learned:

Seneca Lake is seriously underrated. The quality-to-price ratio here is insane compared to California wine country. You’re getting world-class Rieslings, elegant Cab Francs, and thoughtful winemaking at prices that won’t make you cry when you check your bank account.
Riesling is the star, but don’t sleep on Cab Franc. Every winery had at least one Cab Franc that made me rethink everything I thought I knew about this grape. It thrives here.
The community is the secret sauce. Winemakers and tasting room staff genuinely wanted to share their knowledge and passion. No pretension, just good people making good wine.
You can do more than a day. I spent three full days here and still didn’t hit every winery I wanted to visit. Give yourself time to explore, sip slowly, and actually enjoy the lake views.

Ready to plan your own Seneca Lake adventure? Start with Forge Cellars for the education, hit Hermann J. Wiemer for the Riesling masterclass, and save room for at least one “party-style” stop like Hazlitt because wine should be fun, too.

Up Next: Cayuga Lake, where I traded wine tastings for spa treatments (and had zero regrets) and a dose of history. Stay tuned!